I'M GETTING THE HANG OF IT

Before arriving is Spain I was constantly checking the weather report. For the three weeks before arriving it was pouring rain in Spain and snowing in the higher elevations. I was prepared with my rain gear and figured that at least in the beginning I would be walking in the rain. Since arriving the weather has been fantastic. Cold enough in the morning for a fleece, but by the end of the day you are down to a t-shirt. Not hot, but great walking weather. So, what is a typical day like, you ask? It goes something like this:

 

Out the door between 7:30 and 8:00 (This will be earlier if the weather gets hot)

Breakfast on the Camino usually consists of Cafe con Leche. Coffee with steamed milk, maybe a piece of fruit and toast with jam. Staying in hotels you might get juice and a croissant. Then start walking out of town and perhaps hooking up with some of your camino family. You just start walking following the yellow arrows. Most people carry a guide book to give you some idea of what to expect in the way of terrain and town. Usually after 2 to 3 hours of walking, a stop is made for Cafe con Leche and perhaps something to eat. A common staple along the camino is a bocadillo, a sandwich made with dry crusty bread, a thin slice of ham and cheese. Nothing else is on the sandwich, so it is very dry. Cafe and a bocadillo usually runs between 2 to 3 dollars. Every time you stop, its off with the boots and socks to inspect your feet for blisters and hot spots. Also to let them dry out and put on an dry pair of socks. Dry feet are the best defense against blisters. Then in the afternoon perhaps another stop for refreshment.

 

A days walk runs between 12 and 15 miles on average and is dependent on the terrain and the distance to your overnight stopping point. Towns are spaced along the camino at distances which affords you to stop for the night when needed. Most all of the towns have albergues and places to get something to eat.

 

 

 

April 13th

 

It's getting warmer which makes it more tiring to walk. The country side is beautiful and the hills are smaller, or is it just that it's getting easier to climb them. I started having some feet problems with a small blister on the bottom of one of my toes. This is not really an issue as I have drained it and it doesn't affect my walking. But having to walk in wet socks is a problem and I have developed the beginnings of a blister on the ball of my foot. When I arrived in Estella today and after a shower, the first stop was to the pharmacy. Here in Spain, the pharmacy is where one goes for medical advise. The pharmacist is able to provide you with the medicine you need if you are sick. I was given a plaster to cover my blister called Compeed, so we'll see how it goes. Tomorrows walk will be warmer and another 13.5 miles, but the up side is I pass the wine fountain. At the Irache Winery, there is a fountain with two spigots. One is water and the other is wine. Pilgrims are invited to partake. I will be passing the winery early in the days walk, but hay, it's free wine.

 

CROSSES MADE OF STICKS IN THE CHAIN LINK

 

 

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CAMINO MAGIC

I am having a great time so far. The body is doing well with just minor aches and pains. The training has really paid off. Today I arrived in Pamplona just over 42 miles so far. Over the Pyrenees by far is the most difficult part. Up over 4800 feet with strong 40 to 50 mph wind gusts. About 1.5 miles in the snow, which thankfully was not deep, but still hard walking.

 

On the Camino one develops a Camino Family of sorts. People that you see every day and who you sometimes walk with. In the towns stopping for lunch and later for dinner the same people gather together for companionship. My family is starting to form. Lee from Singapore, Charlotte from Denmark, Kevin from England, Sarah from Australia, Sue and Jen from Canada. There are a few others, a Korean couple, she has walked before and this time with her husband. The group is in flux and will more likely change as we travel across Northern Spain.

I'm going to use the rest of this post to tell those who don't know too much about the Camino some of the things that are specific to the this journey. This won't be a complete list, so bear with me. It you need to ask.

 

When one walks on the Camino there are many routes that start from all over Europe all ending at Santiago de Compostela at the Cathedral. Although the scallop shell I carry on my pack represents many things, I think the lines in the shell represent the paths from around Europe that all come together at a point at Santiago. The route I am walking is the Camino Frances, just shy of 500 miles. Starting in France in St. Jean Pied du Port (St John at the foot of the pass), it crosses the Pyrenees and heads west through Northern Spain.

 

 

The path is clearly marked with yellow arrows and the scallop shell symbol as it passes through fields, over mountains through towns, villages, and large cities, such as Pamplona where I am now. A Pilgrim carries with him a Pilgrim's Passport which allows you to stay in the Municipal Albergues (think hostel) some of which has as many at 100 beds in a large room. (yours truly is now writing in his private hotel room) Many small hotels are called hostels or pensions which many times are small family run affairs. Many pilgrims opt for these places for their lodging.

 

The Passport also allows you to partake in Pilgrims Meals at restaurants along the way. Usually 3 courses with wine for around $10-$12. As an example, the other night my meal consisted of a bowl of spaghetti, which in its self was quite filling, next a tortilla, which in Spain is like a quiche potatoes and cheese baked in a pie shape. You get a slice. The second course also included a green salad, then ice cream or cake for desert. This is all washed down with the wine, also included.

 

If you are staying in most albergues, you must leave early, usually by 8 am and you can only stay one night. Sometimes an exception is made if you are injured or sick.

 

Over 100,000 people walk to Santiago every year on the various route, the Frances being the most popular. Even with that many people it is easy to walk alone if that is you desire. I have been walking with Charlotte from Denmark, and sometimes Lee from Singapore. Lee is having problems with blisters and may have to rest a day in Pamplona. Charlotte walks at the same pace that I do so we just sort of fell in together.

 

Yesterday we were walking and I saw a ribbon attached to a bush. On the ribbon was written "Griffith" which is my middle name. A short distance further a second ribbon, this time with the name "Catherine" on it. This is my wife's name spelled that way she spells it. If that's not enough, a little down the path was a flat stone with the name "Joel". Joel is my brother. Charlotte says this is a sign and that along the camino I will discover its meaning.

 

Another story about the camino. I stayed in a small pension and when I left the next morning it seemed like I had packed better as there was a little left over room in my pack. When I arrived at my next over night town and went into my pack for my sandals, it was then that I discovered that I had left them behind. So next door to where I was staying was a store selling hiking gear, so I bought a new pair of sandals. Later someone suggested that I call and perhaps I could have them delivered to my location. There is a service that transports packs for people from town to town. So I went back to the gear shop where I knew the young man spoke English. Without hesitation he called the place I left my sandals, and they found them under the bed. Then they brought the sandals to me and would not accept payment for their trouble. That my friends is what the camino is about. I do have two pair of sandals though.

 

Oh, by the way, I have been given a new name. On the Camino I am called, Dana Diego.

 

 

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FINALLY ON MY WAY

After great dinner with Istavan and Barbara, it was off to bed by 8. I was beat. I was the only guest at the pension so I had a double room to myself. I tossed and turned for several hours thinking about my start in the morning. But the last thing I heard was the church bells ringing the 11 o'clock hour. The next time I heard anything was when the bells struck 7. So, get up, pack, down to breakfast and out the door by 7:45. Part of the service with Istavan and Barbara is a ride to the beginning of the Camino at St. Jean Pied du Port on the French side of the Pyrenees.

 

I bid farewell to my hosts and my first stop is the Pilgrims Office, to learn of the trail conditions. The Napoleon Route is now open I was told and there is only 1.5 kilometers of packed snow and with all the trail markers exposed. I picked up my scallop shell at the Pilgrims Office and tied it to my pack.(more about the shell later) The weather is great, with clear skies, so the Napoleon route it is.

 

I walked through the town gate as the clock in the tower stuck 9, and I was off, climbing up the hill out of town. After about half a mile up the hill I took my first drink of water out of the hydration bladder in my pack. Fitted with a tube so you can drink as needed, I got about one swallow of water, then, nothing. Maybe the tube came disconnected from the reservoir. So off with the pack to take a look. The bladder was empty even though I had filled it last night. I think when it was in the back of Istavan's car the drinking tube must have been under the pack and it drained all the water out. What to do, go back down the half a mile into town, or.......?

 

Not wanting of walk downhill when I was supposed to be going up, I walked up someone's driveway where it looked like no one was home and borrowed some water from a hose in the garden. Problem solved.

 

On this the first day I am only walking for 5 miles to the Refuge Orisson, where I have reserved a bed. I had read many descriptions about how steep this section of the walk was. People talk about the difficulty of this first 5 miles. Yes, it was steep, and yes my legs hurt, but in the big picture of things it wasn't all that bad. On the road most of the way, I arrived in 2 and a half hours or so.

 

Beautiful views around with green hillsides with sheep and cattle on the way up. Other pilgrims always say hello and ask where you're from. After few words, most past me by. I met Dan from Australia, a women who's name I forgot from Germany, Mimi with her sister Judy and brother John all from Colorado and Jen from Halifax. So far my roommates in our six man bunk room is Lee, from Singapore and a older German, Dutch or something a-rather who's name I did not catch as he speaks no English and I don't speak whatever it is he is speaking. I later learned that he was German and 77 years old. He also snores and kept me up most of the night, even with ear plugs. One of my reasons for doing the Camino was to meet people from around the world, and that I'm doing.

 

You get a token for a five minute shower and I had heard that sometime before everyone gets a shower the hot water gets all used up. Knowing this information before hand I figured I better get one of the first showers. Turns out I was the first so I was thinking I has scored. But as it turns out the hot water heater is a long way from the shower head, so the first half of my 5 minutes was in cold, and I mean very cold water. Such is the life of a pilgrim. Be thankful for what you get.

 

It is customary here at Refuge Orisson that everyone eats at a communal meal at one long table. A three course meal with all the wine you want. So, vegetable soup, pasta with short ribs and for desert Basque Cake. Great food and conversation. At the end of the meal, each person stands and introduces themselves, tells where they from and if the want to, say the reason for walking the camino. There were Germans, and nun from Germany walking in her habit, Spaniards, Koreans, Canadians, Australians, Italians, an Englishmen, one gal from Denmark, and me the lone American. Twenty four people in all. It was a great evening.

Tomorrow is up and over the Pyeernes to my next stop in the village of Burguete a distance of 12 miles. I got smart and booked a single room.

 

 

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PLANES, TRAINS, AUTOMOBILES, AND A BUS FROM HELL

I'm sitting in the Atocha Station in the heart of Madrid as I write this. Everything went according to plan getting this far. Left San Diego on British Air on time and arrived in London ahead of schedule by 10 minutes. Traversed terminal 5 at Heathrow and got to my Madrid flight with time to spare. If you've never been to Heathrow you should know it's big. Follow the signs to "connecting flights", down to the underground train, take the train to the last stop, go up and through security, then walk to the terminal and wait till your flight appears on the electronic board. Flights are posted usually 1 hour before departure. As one would expect, my gate is the furthest away from where I'm sitting.

 

Arrived in Madrid and traversed it's airport. More of the same, go down to the train, take the train, which by the was seemed like we were traveling all the way into the city. Go back up, go through passport control, (no line by the way), walk to baggage claim. The suit case arrived, thank you British Air, find the bus into town, pay 5€ and get ready for an E-ticket ride. After a good 10 minutes of terror, we arrive at another terminal to pick up more victims. I figured we'd be in the city by now, but no, still one more terminal pick up. I probably shouldn't have sat in the front of the bus, but I made the mistake of wanting to see where we were going. It was a near death experience as Senior Mad Man weaved his way through heavy traffic trying to set an new land speed record. It was lucky that no one was injured or killed as suitcases and backpacks were flying out of the luggage racks.

 

We arrived in downtown Madrid in one piece and I walked the couple of blocks to my hotel. Nice room, but air conditioning is out of season here in Madrid. Dropped of my bags, and went to McDonald's for something to eat. I know, but it was late and I was starving. Finally hit the sack about 11:30 for some much needed sleep. But that didn't happen, I laid there and tossed and turned for most of the night in my nice but stuffy room. I think I managed about 3 hours sleep.

 

The next morning, up at 7:00 am, took my walking sticks from my suitcase and squeezed them in my back. By pre-arrangement, I walked to the B&B that Cathie and I will be staying in at the completion of my camino. About 15 minutes from my hotel, up the hill and up 4 flights of stairs. You could tell I was tied and hungry as the stairs about kicked my butt with both backpack and suitcase. Cathie is going to love this place, being on the top floor and all. Then back down the hill to a small cafe I spied on the way up, for my first cafe con leche and a croissant all for the price of just under 3€. Boy did that hit the spot. Then the short walk to the Atocha Train station to wait for my 11:30 departure.

 

Now at Corazon Puro Pension as I write this. Except for the lack of sleep, things worked out according to plan with no hiccups. Tomorrow I start for real,

 

 

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THE TRAINING IS OVER, TIME TO GET MOVING

Well, I guess I'm ready. In five short days, on Easter Sunday, I will be leaving for Spain. Until recently I've had some trepidation about walking the Camino de Santiago. This usually occurs when I wake up in the middle of the night and say to myself, "what was I thinking?" Actually I would say, "what the #$^#%^@ was I thinking?" Luckily that feeling has now passed and I'm really excited about my trip. I am no longer nervous about making my connection in London nor catching the train in Madrid to Pamplona. Things will work themselves out and I'm not going to worry myself sick about it. If I have to start the Camino a day later, so be it, it's no big deal. Receintly there has been a lot of snow in the higher elvations over the Pyrenees, but the weather has been improving. A couple of days ago the pass was still closed due to deep snow. If the pass happens to be closed when I get there, I'll just walk around it.

My training is complete. This past month I walked 104 miles and rode my bike 293 miles. When you add it all up since I started my training, I walked with my pack for 443 miles and rode my bike a whopping 1732 miles. I think I'm done training. I've packed my backpack various different ways to get the weight distribution just right. It no longer bothers me to carry the pack and I have no back pain. Since I learned the correct order in adjusting the straps on my pack, it actually feels somewhat comfortable on my back, so that is a good thing. My boots are well broken in and don't hurt my feet. In fact I've been a little concerned that I might wear them out before I get to Spain. After the shot of Cortisone, my shoulder has improved, although it still pains me sometimes. I'm not gonna let that bother me nor slow me down. I am ready.

I don't intend to blog every day while walking the Camino but only when I feel like I have something to say. So I won't be doing daily updates of, "today I walked X-number of miles from point A to point B." I'll keep the blog updated on my progress but not day-to-day. If you follow me on Facebook, I'll also be posting some photographs there on occasion. A lot will depend on when I have Wi-Fi. But please bear with me when I post on the blog as I will be doing so with an iPad app called Blogsy. I've used this app a few times and I'm still trying to get used to it. It does not have spell check. Also I'm going to be trying to dictate my narrative, so we'll see how that goes.

I feel that I've done all the preperation that I can do. So, lets get to it and see if it pays off.

 

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16 DAYS TO GO

Well, I've been continuing my training at a more relaxed pace, cutting back on the miles.  I feel that I'm in pretty good shape and have learned to live with most of the annoying aches and pains that go with walking 12 to 15 miles a day.  My shoulder has been the exception, so yesterday I paid a visit to my doctor who gave me an injection of cortisone.  Seemed to do the trick as last night was the first time in weeks that I have been able to sleep on that shoulder.

The other day my Pilgrim Passport or Credencial del Peregrino arrived. The credencial is a document that identifies the bearer as a pilgrim, with space for stamps from accommodations and sites along the Camino.  A pilgrim passport is required in order to use the Camino's system of albergues and serves as proof of completing the pilgrimage.

The Compostela is a document of completion awarded to those who walk at least the last 100 kilometers to Santiago.  One presents his completed credencial at the pilgrim office in Santiago de Compostela in order to get your Compostela, written in Latin and personalized with your name and date of completion.

I'll also be carrying this guide book with maps and a description of the route.  It also gives the pilgrim information on places to stay, eat, where to get water and information about sites along the Camino. There are other guides, but I liked this one the best as the maps had more detail than the others.   You could get by just following the yellow arrows which mark the route.

A app developer read my blog and offered me a download of an app he developed called A Wise Pilgrim Guide At first glance it looks pretty good and with the exception of the GPS feature, it works without internet, so I've loaded onto my iPad Mini which will be going along.

I've been watching the weather along the beginning of the Camino, especially over the Pyrenees. Right now the Napoleon Route, or the high route is closed due to snow.  There is a lower route one can take, but most of the off highway trails are impassable, so one must walk on the road.  Currently the weather reports call for rain and snow for the next week.  But a pilgrim must be flexible, so depending on the conditions when I arrive will go into my decision on where to begin my Camino.

Here are some photos of the current trail conditions.

36 DAYS TO GO, THE TRAINING CONTINUES

This months numbers are, 94 miles walking and 286 miles on the bike.  All goes well with the training with some minor adjustments made to my pack.  My back started hurting right between the shoulder blades when I had my pack on, so I've been making some adjustments to it to see what works best.  If I don't get any improvement soon, I'll be making a trip to REI to talk to the experts. The pack weight is right where is should be at just over 16 pounds, before I add the 1.5 liters of water that I will start each day with.  The water is in a hydration bladder in the pack with an attached drinking tube.  I like this best as I drink more water this way since I don't have to take the pack off to get to a water bottle.  

This is what's going in my pack: Rain jacket and pants, lightweight sleeping sack, fanny pack for day use and valuables, (1) long-sleeve tec T-shirt, (1) short-sleeve tec T-shirt, (1) long-sleeve hiking shirt, wool beanie, pair of gloves, mesh bag with toilet articles and medicine, iPhone, iPad Mini w/charging cables, (1) pair convertible hiking pants, (1) pair lounge pants, (2) pair underwear, (2) pair double layer socks, sandals and Camino guide book.  I will add a small first aid kit, clothes pins, small pocket knife and the all important corkscrew.  This list does not include what I'll be wearing.

AND IT ALL GOES IN HERE

Last year I postponed going on the Camino because of painful bursitis in my left shoulder.  Most likely due to carrying the pack, but it's starting to hurt some again.  Not to the point of another postponement, but enough that I've made an appointment for another injection of cortisone.

I still haven't been able to do a real test with the rain gear.  I walked once in light rain an it did fine.  I may have to go stand in the shower to do a real test.  There has been a little rain here in Southern California.  When I started my training walks, I posted this picture on the blog of our brown hills.

Here's what it looks like after a little rain.  Being Southern California, it will soon be brown again.

For the reader (s) out there, feel free to post comments or ask questions in the comment section.  If you have my e-mail address you can use that too.