OH, THE PAIN

YOU WILL NEVER KNOW YOUR LIMITS UNTIL YOU PUSH YOURSELF PAST THEM

Day 6 Logroño to Soteś. 11.2 miles

Left my little apartment just as it was getting light.  When looking for coffee in the early AM, finding it is sometime iffy.  But because of previous early morning starts, I knew of just the place.  And sure enough it was open with the same bar-man as my previous visits.  Anyway, got my Cafe con Leche, orange juice, and Chocolate Napoleon.  The place was near empty, so I pulled up a chair to enjoy my coffee.  Within minutes, a bus load of French tourists came in and the place was overflowing.  Nothing against French tourists, but I took cue and beat feet outa there.

When leaving Logroño, the first mile or so is on busy thoroughfares and sometimes the yellow arrows are elusive.  But the City of Logroño has their own design for a yellow arrow in to form of a metal plaque imbedded in the sidewalks, so keep looking down and you’ll do fine.  The next couple of miles are through a large city park surrounded by high rise apartments which give way to a larger rural park.  So once leaving the busy streets the walk becomes very pleasant, on good pathways through some nice scenery.  There is a sometimes open cafe in the rural park, but not this time. 

Navarrete becomes the first place to stop and take a break.  Navarrete is a hilltop village, so one must go up to find a cafe.  A must see is the the church who’s construction started in1553 and finished in the 17th century.  The baroque altarpiece is gold and quite beautiful.  Difficult to see in the low lite of the church, but put your 1€ in the little box and the lights come on. It’s worth the euro.

I am currently in another hilltop village for the nite. Soteś, used to be on the Camino, but it was bypassed for some reason.  Perhaps it’s because it’s a steep climb. I stayed here in 2018 and as far as I know, I was the only pilgrim.  Tonight there is another pilgrim staying in the same Casa Rural and earlier in the day I spoke to a pilgrim from Taiwan who said he was heading for Soteś.  My lodging tonight includes dinner and breakfast in the morning.

Dinner was pretty typical for pilgrims, 4 courses, salad, soup, chicken with fries, yogurt for desert.  Of course a bottle of good La Rioja red wine.  Also staying here is Raul Antonio and his dog Cookie.  He speaks no English so we converse using Google Translate on our phones.  We had an enjoyable meal.

Day 7. Soteś to Azofra. 11.7 miles

After a simple breakfast of toast and coffee it was out the door before sunrise, and the sunrise didn’t disappoint.  Another 40 degree morning with a breeze to make it seem colder.  Mostly easy walking on dirt farm roads, not too much pavement, with just a few assents.  The most notable as I leave Nájera, a fair sized city a little over the halfway point of the day.  A stop for the pilgrims 2nd breakfast of Coffee con Leche and a croissant and time to take of the socks and sandal to let the feet rest.

Speaking of feet.  My three blisters on my right foot are on my three biggest toes.  One is under a toe nail and looks quite angry.  The toe nail is a goner, but surprisingly not too painful when wearing my new toe socks and sandals.  I can walk comfortably for most of the day.  My only pain is coming from the front of my left thigh, which I can’t figure out.  It comes and goes when ever it wants to let me know that it is still part of my body.  Stabbing pain at times and then no pain for miles.  Ibuprofen is the only remedy for now.

I arrive in Azofra around 1:30 and check into my pension, a place I have stayed before.  Nice room with a shared bathroom, just across the plaza from the bar.  It is at the bar where you check in to your room and where dinner will be served.  And the dinner turned out to be just Ok.  Most of the Pilgrim fixed price meals are pretty basic.  Salad or soup, meat and fries, and a packaged ice cream bar.  It does include wine and for 13€ it not a bad deal.  It’s just that it’s like every other pilgrim meal.

Day 8 Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. 9.5 miles

Out the door at 7 with a quick stop at the bar for coffee, juice and toast.  More of the same as far as the scenery goes.  Green fields as far as the eye can see, walking on dirt farm roads and through one town.  The town of Cirueña was built just before the 2008 downturn and is now basically a ghost town with new buildings.  Most of the homes and apartments are vacant, and the streets eerily empty.

Still having blister issues and today the knife in my thigh lasted most of the day.  So, I asked the blisters and the knife in my thigh what they thought we should do?  It was agreed that tomorrow we all will take the bus or a taxi to the next stop.  And then I’ll be have a service take my backpack forward each day until the blisters and the thigh quite down.

Because I deserve it, tonight I am staying the the Paradores Hotel. Paradores are a government owned chain and many of their hotels are in historic buildings as is the one I’m in. Set in a converted 12th-century pilgrims hospital featuring Gothic stone arches and beamed ceilings, this refined hotel is opposite Cathedral Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

I am sitting in the lobby of the Parador Hotel  in Santo Domingo de la Calzada on a very comfortable leather couch, so I thought this would be a good time to tell a Camino story.

As legend has it, many years ago, a young German man, Hugonell, was walking to Santiago with his parents.  I suppose his parents where with him because he needed a chaperone.  But anyway, while in Santo Domingo, they stayed with a farmer and his family.  As many farmer stories go, the farmer had a daughter.  Now the daughter, most likely looking to leave the farm, tried to seduce unsuspecting Hugo but as a pious pilgrim he refused her.  That turned out to be a big mistake on poor Hugo's part.  The young girl became so angry that her amorous intentions were repulsed, that she hid some silver in his pack.  After he left, she called the authorities and accused the boy of the theft.  Upon finding the silver in his pack, he was promptly found guilty and hanged.  There was swift justice back then, not like today.  As was the custom, the body of the accused was left to hang in the town square as a deterrent to others.

His parents, though grief-stricken, continued on with their pilgrimage to Santiago.  It was common back in the day, that after reaching Santiago, pilgrims would turn around and head back home.  So on their return journey they stopped again in Santo Domingo to pay a visit to their son who was still hanging there.  Much to their surprise he was still alive, if you can believe it.  Hugo's folks figured it was a miracle and that Santo Domingo had held him up so he wouldn't die.

So off they went to see the magistrate and ask him to cut poor Hugo down, as he was obviously innocent.  The judge, who had just sat down to a hearty chicken dinner exclaimed, "Why, he is no more alive than this roasted chicken I'm about to eat."  At this, the cooked chicken stood up on his plate, miraculously brought back to life feathers and all and crowed.  So Hugo was saved to live another day.

To this day, in the church in Santo Domingo there is a chicken, who is said to be a direct descendent on the resurrected fowl in the story.  For a few euros you can go and pay a visit to said chicken, or like me, I’ve seen chickens before and opted of some vino tino in the bar.

CONTINUING ON

WALK, EAT, SLEEP

Day 3

A 9 am start, late for a pilgrim but the casa rural that I stayed in was fabulous and comfortable.  I slept in till 7:30 an unheard of hour for most pilgrims. A mostly easy walk today with short climbs and not too steep.  Because I am staying between the stages, I didn’t see another pilgrim for the first 2 hours, and then only until I reached the city of Estrella.  A windy day today which at time made it felt really cold.  A few sprinkles thrown in for good measure.

I stopped in Estrella long enough to have an ice tea and to take care of me feet.  I was hoping to be blister free this time, but the down hills had a different idea.  Due to my toes mashing into the front of my boot, I developed a blister under the nail of one of them.  Not really painful, unless I mash it into the front of my boot again.  All in all I am faring well, with no other issues.

After Estrella there is a gentle climb through the city until the outskirts where there is the Fuente de Vino, or the wine fountain.  The local winery which the Camino passes through, has a fountain for pilgrims which on spigot dispensers water and the other wine.  Pilgrims are encouraged to have a taste, although some actually fill up a whole water bottle, which is frowned upon.  I have seen some pilgrims who have nothing to drink from, put their mouth on the spigot and turn the handle.  Pretty disgusting.  The proper way is to use your scallop shell to drink from.  Anyway the wine is free and because it’s free, not very good.

Tonight I am again between the stages in the small village of Azqueta, staying at La Perla Nedra, or The Black Pearl.  Operated by Helena, it is very basic with several beds in each room.  Right now I am in a room with two other empty beds, but if the place fills up, I will be sharing the room.  One shower for a total of eight pilgrims.  But dinner and breakfast is included, and one must remember the saying, “tourists complain, pilgrims are grateful.”  You have a place to sleep and food on the table.

Day 4

Actually as simple as it was, last nights albergue was OK.  Four other pilgrims, but none assigned to my room, so I slept well.  Dinner was simple, vegetarian, and really quite tasty. Of course it came with wine.  I slept rather soundly, and got up about 6:30 to  simple breakfast of toast, yogurt, and coffee.  Cheese and dry cereal was available, but I passed.  Out the door at 7:30 in the the 40 degree morning.  It didn’t stay cold long and it warmed up into the high 60’s a pleasant change from the wind and cool temps of the past couple of days.

On the way to the next town you pass the Fuente de los Moros (13th century cistern), with steps on the inside leading down to the water.  Todays walk was through farmland, with mostly wheat, grapes and a few olive groves.  Except when passing through Los Arcos, a pretty good sized town, the walking was on dirt farm roads.  Towards the end of today’s walk, it turned to pavement as you approach Sansol. I continued on just a short distance to Torres del Rio.

SANSOL

TORRES DEL RIO

I walk pretty slow, and most pilgrims pass me.  In fact the only pilgrims I passed were in bars or sitting down taking a break.  Sometimes a pilgrim arrives by my side and starts a conversation.  So, I tend to walk faster to keep up with their pace to continue the conversation.  I did that a couple of times today and paid the price.  I now have a blister on the end of my big toe and another one developing and another toe.  You just don’t feel them coming on.  At my lunch stop, as is my practice, I changed socks and there it was.  So I taped it up, slathered some more Vaseline on my feet and continued on.  After awhile it became so painful that I had to switch to my sandals.  So, until the blisters get better, the boots stay off.

Tonight I am back in a private room at an albergue in Torres del Rio, a small village.  Most of these small villages would not survive if not for the Camino.  Torres del Rio, has 4 albergues/ hostels that cater mostly to pilgrims.  These establishments usually include and bar/restaurant, both dormitory and private rooms  The Camino and the towns and villages it passes through really suffered during Covid.  I have seen many business that were operational when I walked in 2018 vacant and in some cases in disrepair.

CHURCH IN LOS ARCOS

Day Five

The Albergue I was staying in does’t serve breakfast, so I had to walk the opposite direction on the Camino and down hill to find an open cafe.  This is usually frowned upon by other pilgrims as you add unnecessary kilometers to the Camino.  What!  You walked backward?  But if I wanted my Camino breakfast it would mean 6 miles to the first chance to find a Coffee con Leche and a Chocolate Neapolitan going in the right direction.  So having to repeat 100 yards by going in the wrong direction became necessary.  I did confess to my fellow pilgrims my breaking of an important pilgrim rule and was forgiven.

I continued walking in my sandals and they did the job.  The only problem that might develop by wearing them is they do not offer much support.  Most of my days are short so I’m hoping they will continue to serve me well.

Today started out at 40 Degrees and by the end of the walk in the high 60’s. Most on dirt paths, till the last 2 miles that were on pavement.  With the temperature in the 60’s’ on blacktop that translates into the 80’s.  You really feel in on your feet.  I stopped to change socks, which is my custom to prevent blisters.  I an effort to add an additional lever of feet security, I stepped into a sports shop and bought a pair of toe socks which I will wear under my hiking socks.  Other pilgrims swear by them, so, why not?

After another 12+ mile day, I reach Logroño, the capitol of La Rioja region.  This part of Spain is known for it’s wines.  Logroño’s population is approximately 150,000, so it is a large city.  Besides it’s wine the City of Logroño is famous for it’s Pinchos or Tapas.  Small appetizers eaten in bars made with lots of different ingredients.  So I, along with some of my fellow pilgrims will head over to Calle Laurel for it’s famous Pinchos, and will skip dinner.

I am in a small studio apartment for the night. It’s advantage is that it has a washing machine so I was able to get my clothes washed.  I am right next to the cathedral square with it’s two towers which can be seen as you approach the city.  The city center is mostly pedestrian only, so it’s great for walking. 

AND NOW I BEGIN

One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.

Day 1:  Left Pamplona at 8 under cloudy skies with a chill in the air.  The route out of Pamplona has changed some since the last time I walked. It seems it changed so it would go by more coffee shops. Before the change the route was practically devoid of places to grab a quick bite.  I must have passed 5 or 6 cafes on the new route. This is  good thing for both the pilgrims and local businesses.  It is difficult to get off route as the path through town is clearly marked with the symbol of the Camino, the scallop shell.  The shell and yellow arrows on official signs or just painted on a light pole or a curb are what guide you along the Way.

Why the scallop shell you ask?  The legend goes that when Saint James’ body was discovered in Galicia it was covered in scallop shells having been washed up on the shore.  (More about that in a future post). So, the scallop shell became the symbol of the Camino.  Most pilgrims carry a scallop shell on the backpack.  The yellow arrows came later. One of the most international symbols of the Camino de Santiago is the yellow arrow, painted on roads, houses, fences and trees.  It is of recent origin as it was conceived in 1984 on the initiative of a priest of O Cebreiro, Elías Valiña, and signposted the French Way from France to Santiago.  So you just follow the yellow arrows and the shell and you’ll never get lost. And if you do, a local person will soon direct you in the right direction.

After leaving the city you begin the climb to Alto del Perdón, at 2500 feet the high point on todays walk.  There is a monument there with steel sculptures which represent pilgrims through the eras, beginning in mid-evil times to the present day.  The inscription on the monument reads "Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars."  The walk down from the top is the tough part, steep and covered with loose rocks.  Thirteen miles today and I really felt the downhill part.  Tomorrow I’ll be doing the Camino Shuffle, a common affliction seen in pilgrims who are just starting out.  You know, just shuffling along.  Of course there is always Camino Candy to ease the pain. (Ibphrophen)

LEAVING PAMPLONA

ALTO DEL PERDON 

HEADING DOWN

On my stop for lunch, I shared a table with an Iranian couple who now reside in Germany.  It is not uncommon the share a table with other pilgrims in a crowded bar.  At first no words were spoken, but the wife poured some of their potato chips out onto a napkin and slid them over to me.  Then the conservation began.  Never any talk about politics, just about the Camino.  The husband, Razor (sp) commented on how open everyone is willing to share details about their lives.  That my friends is the Camino. 

Today’s stop is in the village of Obanos, just shy of the town of Puente la Reina, a town listed in guide books as the end of a stage.  A larger town than where I’m staying with all the services a Pilgrim might need.  Because I am walking shorter distances, I end up in some of the smaller villages, such a Obanos.  I am staying in a Casa Rural that has 4 private rooms.  I am the only guest.  For a small fee, I am able to get my clothes washed, and they needed it after today’s walk.  For dinner I go to the local bar which I might add was full of locals.  Not another pilgrim in sight. Dinner was the Menú del dia which consisted of different choices for each of the three courses. So when the bar man was trying to explain each choice, I noticed one included the word “jamon”, you know ham.  I seemed a good pick so I went with it.  I was delivered a full dinner plate of peas, with small little pieces of ham.  I hate peas, but I had to at least try. Actually they were quite good, not like any pea I’ve ever eaten. I managed to finish most of them, more peas than I’ve had in my entire life.  The rest of the meal had no surprises, consisting of chicken and potatoes and flan for desert.  Of course, wine is included with the meal.

The bar patrons were about 90% male, who were loud and boisterous.  A card game going at one table, the rest of the bar being packed.  I had to eat at the bar as all the tables were taken.  I imagine that the men were telling lies to each other, just like bars around the world.  I had a few conversations with with some of them, none of which I understood, I got by, by nodding in the affirmative and saying, Sí, over and over.

Day 2

A shorter day today, just over 10 miles.  I few steep climbs, but several villages to stop in for a break. A stop in Puente la Reina for breakfast where I caught up with a Spanish couple who I had breakfast with in Pamplona.  Named for the bridge, the town is a major stopping point for Pilgrims on the Camino.  The bridge was built in the 11th century in the Romanesque style.  It has six arches, and was built by Doña Mayor, wife of King Sancho III, to facilitate the passage of pilgrims. I crossed the bridge in the rain and continued on into the country side, with fields of wheat, fava beans and vineyards covering the hillsides.

I met an Italian woman and her daughter and it is natural to have a conversation with other pilgrims who you may walk with for a time.  Julia and Laure kept me company for a while and when stopping in a village, Julia insisted on buying me a cup of coffee con leche.  This my friends is the Camino

I arrived at my destination about 1 pm, too early to check in to the casa rural I had reserved.  So at one of the Albergues in the village. I had lentil soup for lunch.  I have to mention that all along the Camino each region has it’s own soup that is a specialty in that particular to that area.  I have found that they are all delicious and make to a good lunch choice rather than the common bocidillo (sandwich).  And because I was early, I used the time to write this.  The owners of the albergue were accommodating and allowed me to use one of their cafe tables as my own office so to speak.  A very nice couple, she is from Korea and he is Spanish.  They met in Italy, fell in love and opened this albergue in the small village of Lorca.  Stop in and have some of their delicious Lentil soup.

For readers that leave comments.  I understand the reluctance to sign up for Google to leave a name with your comment.  If you wouldn’t mind when you make an anonymous comment, in the body of your comment would you just sign it with your first name, so at least I’ll have an idea who you are….or not. Secondly, if we are not already friends on Facebook and you would like to follow along with my daily updates, leave a comment on the blog with your first name and then send me a friend request on Facebook with the same first name.  I don’t like and will not accept facebook request from people that I have no connection with.  Of course you can do neither of these two options and I’ll be fine with that.

The journey continues….

GETTING THERE

One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.

I have a tendency when posting to the blog, to write it as though everyone who reads it is a Camino Veteran, or at least have been reading the blog since it’s inception.  I’m gonna have to change that as there are many who read the blog have little or no knowledge about the Camino.

So, about getting there.  Depending on where you live will have some bearing on how and on what airline to fly to Europe.  Many fly to Paris, then train to Saint Jean Pied du Port, the start of the French Way.  I have always, (4 times) flown to Madrid.  For me my choice of airline has been British Air as they have had a direct flight from my home town to London.  Change in London, arrive in Madrid in the evening, hotel it for a couple of nights, then Train to Pamplona.  On my first two Caminos, a daily bus in the afternoon to SJPP. The past Camino and now this one I chose to start walking from Pamplona.

British Air has been late more times than not recently for their daily flight according to Flight Aware.  My flight was no exception.  The incoming BA flight from London arrived on time, but the return flight left the gate 1 1/2 hours late.  Why you ask?  Well it seems that the catering truck bring our dinner to the plane was involved in an accident. The delay for the food caused some of the crew to be “timed out” and had to be replaced.  Arriving in London meant instead of 3 hours to change to my Madrid flight, I had 1 hour and 10 minutes.  Just made it.

Upon arrival in Madrid, I’ve never had a line at passport control, just walk right up, get your passport stamped and you’re good to go.  There is a bus, when you make your exit outside, that will take you to the Atocha Train Station in the city center.  It costs 5€ and takes about 30 minutes to get downtown.  In the past it was a yellow bus, but they managed to confuse me and changed it to blue. Of course you can take a taxi, but then it’s gonna cost you about 40€. It is from Atocha where you can catch a direct train to Pamplona, the next day if you arrive in the evening.  Plenty of places to stay near the train station and it’s within walking distance of Plaza Mayor and many historic sights in the old part of the city. You can pay a lot for a upscale hotel, but there are many smaller Hostels (think small hotel) that are very reasonable.

PLAZA MAJOR

ATOCHA TRAIN STATION

A word about the Spanish trains.  The trains are clean, fast and on time.  Renfe, Spain’s rail system web-site sucks.  If you book early tickets are cheaper, if you try to book too early, more than 6 to 8 weeks out, you may not find your desired train.  Renfe doesn’t post it’s trains till closer to the date of departure.  The site crashes, times out, and is frustrating to use.  Petrabax, an American travel company sells Spanish Rail tickets and their web site seems to have tickets before Renfe posts them on their site.  You’ll pay a little more, but there’s comfort in knowing you have your ticket.  That being said, I have never been on a train in Spain that has been full.  Perhaps I’m just lucky.

While in Madrid, I bought a new pair of trekking poles, as TSA says you can’t carry the on.  Also a Spanish Sim card for the phone.  I have found that purchasing one at an independent store or tobacco shop is the most economical.  I purchased a Movistar 4G card with 15 gigs good for 30 day for 10€. I can add time or data to it when needed.

Getting here was pretty seamless.  With the exception of my late arrival in London and rushing to catch my connecting flight, it all was smooth.  As I write this I am on the train to Pamplona where I will start walking.  Looking forward to getting started.