AN EARLY MORNING WALK IS A BLESSING FOR THE WHOLE DAY
Although I have a wife and family that is my forever home, which I always return to, for me this journey also feels like home. I am at peace when I am walking, deep in my own thoughts, only hearing my foot steps on the path. There is a calmness that I feel here and I am comfortable, not worrying about where my next meal will be or where I will sleep. It is simple without the normal stresses of life. That is why I walk the Camino.
Day 16 12.8 miles. Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino
Leaving Castrojeriz at 6:30 as the forecast says it’s gonna be warm. Walking through the town in the dark, the street lights reflection off the stone buildings gave the town a golden glow. As it gets lighter, we exit the villiage, back on dirt roads cutting through fields of grain and hay. Then the climb begins. The steep slope up to the Alto de Mostelares, with a drop of 145 meters in 1.7 kilometers down the other side. The Alto de Mostelares gives us an incredible view with the plateau stretching out endlessly in front of us.
We leave the Burgos region and cross into the Province of Palencia after crossing the Pisuerga River on the Fitero Bridge. It is dated back to the 11th century, when King Alfonso VI of León ordered it to be built, in order to help the pilgrims cross the river.
After the decent, the rest of the day is mostly on level ground, again through grain and hay fields along dirt farm roads. There is only one town along this stretch, Itera de la Vega, where one can stop for refreshments and a meal. The first and second bar were closed, but the 3rd was opened and packed with pilgrims. Being so busy, they weren’t interested in making me my bocadillo especial. So, I had a Cafe con Leche and continued on.
My hotel in Boadilla, Hotel Rural En El Camino, is owned by the same family who own the Albergue of the same name next door. Eduardo, works in all aspects to the business which most caters to pilgrims. He does everything. Checking people in, serving dinner and breakfast at the albergue, tending bar. As I was checking in, Eduardo handed me back my passport, which I placed under my arm while gathering up my pack. I started up the stairs and couldn’t find my passport. I checked pockets, the hotel desk the bar to no avail. When I started to say something to Eduardo about my passport being missing, without missing a beat he says, “It’s under your arm.”
THE ALBERGUE
In Boadilla, the only two places to eat are the hotel and the adjacent albergue. The meal is three courses and you get some choices as to kind of soup and your entree. There is no menu for you to choose from and dinner for everyone is served at 7. It’s a communal meal and a good way to meet fellow pilgrims and the food, along with wine was pretty good. If your ever in Boadilla and get a chance to stay in either the hotel or the albergue, do it. It is one of the best run operations along the Camino thanks to Eduardo and his family
Day 17 15.5 miles. Boadilla del Camino to Carrión de los Condes. Longest day and everything worked. I started out at 6am in the dark using the flashlight on my phone to see which way the yellow arrows were pointing. Walking alongside Canal de Castilla for the first several miles, I was treated with a beautiful sunrise. The remainder of the day was mostly on flat level terrain on dirt tracks, the vast majority of of which was along side a provincial highway which luckily had very little traffic. I did get up into the high 70’s towards the end of the day, but it was manageable. Carrión is one of my favorite towns on the Camino. On my first Camino, I took a day off there along with my Camino brothers Len and Alex. The town is big enough that it has everything a pilgrim needs and small enough that it only takes 15 to 20 minutes to walk though. Plenty of bars, an ATM, great bakery and a wonderful restaurant, which I ate in again.
Day 18 14.6 miles. Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos. Today was pretty much like yesterday. Flat and level dirt roads across what seems like the endless Mesita. Head down and keep walking. In the past it was 17 km from Carrión to the first place to get refreshments. Now an enterprising person has set up a cafe of sorts along the path, where you and get sandwiches, other snacks and cold drinks, including beer. I kept on moving on, not stopping until the first village.
WITH ST JAMES
CAFE IN THE FIELDS
I mentioned before my bocadillo that I like and a couple of days back I tried to order it in a bar for lunch. I told the bartender I wanted a sandwich with, cheese, sausage and a fried egg. He said it was not possible. He then suggested I get an egg, sausage and cheese served on a plate. I agreed and when served it came, like most Spanish meals, with a couple pieces of bread. So basically I got my sandwich, it just wasn’t put together.
A word about having a service transport my pack each day. There are several companies that will transport your pack or a suitcase from town to town. Pretty simple. You fill out an envelope, that most all lodging establishments have on hand, with your name, e-mail address, phone number, and your next town and the place you’ll be staying. Then you give them a call and tell them where you currently are staying and where you want the bag to go. Put 6 euros in the envelope, attach to your bag with the rubber ban provided, and leave it where you are staying, start walking. And presto, when you get to your next stop, your pack will be waiting there for you.
Day 19 10.3 miles. Ledigos to Sahagún. Another good and short day on mostly flat dirt roads. In a few days the Mesita will end and I will miss it. Today I stopped for my second breakfast and left my glasses on the table in the bar. I got about fifty yards down the path and I hear someone yelling, Hey! Hey! I turned to look to see what the ruckus was about there was this pilgrim holding a glasses case in the air, which looked vaguely familiar from 50 yards. They were my glasses and he, Stanley saved the day. I ended up thanking him profusely and later again when I saw him further down the trail. Then when I arrived in town at the end of the day, I bumped into him again. So Stanley, his friend Zoey and I had a great dinner on the town plaza. That my friends, is the Camino.
PILGRIM’S SECOND BREAKFAST, BACON AND EGGS ON TOAST
Today I hit the historical and geographical half way spot on the Camino, but because I did not start at the beginning, I’ve got about 40 km to go..
You are doing some hefty mileage each day...most impressive. And I bet it's great when you can look in front of you and see no other Pilgrims sharing "your" route because you have set off so early in the morning to make the most of the day. Hope you've got a beach week in Malaga booked at the end of all this!!
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