As you start to walk out on the way, the way appears
Day 13 0 miles. Burgos A day off, although I did walk around the city a bit. I organized my new day pack trying to keep it as light as possible. Because of it’s small size, the waist belt is skinny and high above my waist when worn. I tighten it up like it’s supposed to be and it really accentuates my “love handles” and not in a flattering way.
Ate at a restaurant I had eaten in when walking in 2017. I was really great then but a disappointment now. The previous evening I had opted for tapas for dinner, which turned out to be a better choice. The elderly waiter, upon learning I was from Arizona, broke into song, singing, “Route 66”.
So I wandered around Burgos, enjoying the sights, taking pictures and just taking it easy. Enjoy the photos
Day 14 12.9 miles. Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
Leaving at 6:30 so I can take my time, the city was just waking up. Most of the bars and coffee shops are closed, but finally found one after leaving the city center. Glad I found it when I did, as a whole bunch of pilgrims decided to stop for Cafe con Leche like me. Got my coffee and stepped back and watched the line form. Just one clerk behind the counter, so I was glad I got there when I did. It’s about 2 miles of walking before exiting the city. The path is well marked and it’s difficult to get of the track. Then the pavement disappears and much of the remainder of the day was on dirt roads.
Burgos is the beginning of the Mesita or the plains. Mostly flat or gentle rolling hills, with just a few accents and decents. Like the plains in the US, it is a major producer of grain crops and hay. Many pilgrims skip the Mesita as it is boring to many. This is my favorite part. I see the beauty in the different green hues in the crops in the undulating land. Mostly easy walking, it is also a great time for reflection. The downside I guess would be the relentless sun, especially in the summer. In winter it can get brutally cold, with wind, rain and snow.
I had booked a room in a Casa Rural and it’s a good thing I did. The Camino is getting crowded and this small town is full. There are no beds available here or in the next town. Someone arraigned for a bus to come and pick up the extra pilgrims and take them back to Burgos for the night. In the morning they will be returned here. To continue walking. I think I mentioned before, but I have booked all the way to Santiago. It detracts from the flexibility, but it’s nice to know I am assured a bed each night.
Day 15 11.7 miles. Hornillas del Camino to Castrojeriz.
Leaving early to avoid the afternoon heat, I decided to try something a little different in order to keep the little man with the knife in my pocket. I will use my trekking poles most of the time. I had only been using them on steep accents and descents. I discovered this morning that I got stabbed most often going up or going down. I was going down a not too steep hill and I was getting knifed. A gal passed me going full stride down the hill and I say, why not. So off I went at full stride, speeding up and the guy quit stabbing me. I got to the bottom of the hill and still no pain, so I kept up the longer stride and the faster pace. That seemed to do the trick. Very little pain with just a couple of times when I must have pissed of the little guy in my pocket. We’ll wait and see how tomorrow goes.
Although the Mesita is pretty flat there are some ups and downs. Entering into Hontanas, the town sits below the level of the plain and as you past through it, you continue downhill into a broad valley. But, what goes down, in this case, must come up. It is like that especially in this section of the Mesita. In the morning the first thing out of town is up.
There is a sign on the Camino just before one of the towns. It reads: “Socrates says the 2nd bar is cool”. Most towns have a couple of bars, but the first one upon entering a town gets most of the business. Most pilgrims stop at the first place they see. As for me, I go to the second bar and have found uncrowded gems. Today was no different. I entered Hontanas, and the first bar, although inviting with a lawn out front and shaded tables, it was full of pilgrims. So, I continued to the 2nd bar, who would not make me my special bocadillo. So, luckily there was a 3rd bar and it had no customers. I asked about my bocadillo and the gal behind the bar asked the cook, and it was “no problemo. They were happy to have a customer. I was sitting outside and the cook brings me the sausage she intended to use and asked if it was ok and how I wanted it sliced. Anyway, I had a great bocadillo, amongst friendly folks. That, my friends is the Camino. And always remember the 2nd bar.
You can’t always trust the signage on the Camino. I think I might have taken the wrong turn.
