Thursday, May 21, 2015

THANKS

I wanted to make one last post, at least for now, to thank all of you who made comments on the blog, in e-mails and on Facebook. I meant a lot to me that you would take the time to do so. Words of encouragement were especially appreciated. I've probably said it before, but deciding to walk the Camino de Santiago was the best decision I have made in my entire life when it came to wanting to take a hard look at myself. Besides the personal nature of my Camino, I met people from all over the world and from different walks of life and some will friends forever.

 

Cathie arrived in Madrid safely, although a bit late, and we have started our 3 week trip to Northern Spain, France and the Black Forest in Germany. So I will put this blog to rest for the time being and I will be switching to www.gassawaysadventures.blogspot.com if you care to follow along.

CATHIE LEARNS ABOUT TAPAS

 

I will keep www.walkingmycamino.blogspot.com alive as you just never know, there might me another Camino in the works.

 

 

Sunday, May 17, 2015

THOSE I WILL MISS

As I rode a taxi to the airport in Santiago early this morning, I felt a real sadness as I was leaving my Camino Family behind and would most likely not see most of them ever again. I felt closer to some, but all of them will be remembered with great fondness. Each will be remembered for different reasons. Some just for being helpful, directing me to the next yellow arrow, the closest bar, albergue or hotel. There are others who I shared a day or more of walking and talking about or lives, family and the Camino. Then there were some who I shared with and they with me, their reasons for walking the Camino. Sometimes these were very personal conversations and we shared our deepest feelings. I can't explain it, but it was easy to spill one's guts to a fellow pilgrim you had only known for a day or two. Everyone on the Camino is there for some reason, either for the physical challenge or for personal reasons. For many it was because of a major change in their lives. Loss of a job, choosing a new direction in life, in remembrance of a loved one, to honor their God. We discussed these things openly, while walking or over a meal. It was the best of times. This is my Camino Family.
URSULA


Ursula is from Germany and I met her in Orrison on the first day of the Camino. The alburgue was in the shade of the mountain and it was cold, so Ursula and I took a walk down the road to a sunny spot to warm up. Ursula doesn't speak much English, but she spoke more English than I do German. This was her 4th time walking the Camino, once being on a folding bicycle. On the Camino, I kept finding Ursula ahead of me and as it turned out she sometimes took the bus, jumping ahead. I don't know how old Ursula is, but I hope I can walk as far as she can.

LEE

Lee and I were in the same room on that 1st night. In the morning we crossed the Pyrenees together and walked together off and one the 1st couple of days. Lee is from Singapore and told me that last year only three people from his country walked the Camino. He is the 1st person to do so this year. Pretty much from the start, Lee has had issues with his feet and blisters. It has been said by other pilgrims who have seen it, that Lee's blister on the bottom of his foot is the worlds largest. He also damaged his toes walking down hill so he has resorted to going down hills backwards. He fell way behind me, but we stay in touch. He has had to bus ahead for medical treatment for his feet and now his knee. Lee arrived in Santiago today and after two days of rest he plans on walking another 90 km to the end of the earth at Finisterre.
CHARLOTTE


Charlotte, from Denmark, walked with me for several days. The Camino being a new experience for both of us, we learned from each other. Charlotte recently lost her job and was walking the Camino to help sort out a new direction in life for her. We had some great conversations as we walked along. After a couple of days of walking together, Charlotte told me she wanted to walk alone. This is understood among pilgrims and there is never any hard feelings because of one's decision. I saw Charlotte a couple of more times, but I ended up several days ahead of her. She arrived in Santiago on the day I left the city.

KEVIN
KEVIN SECOND FROM THE LEFT
Kevin is from the United Kingdom. I've been told that he is an Irishmen with a British accent. Kevin and I walk the last bit up and over the Pyrenees and down the other side. We didn't talk much then, but later about five days before arriving in Santiago, I heard someone behind me call my name. It was Kevin and we walked together the better part of two days. I was great talking with him, and as a former military helicopter pilot he had some storied to tell. We shared a great, and the most expensive of my Camino I might add, meal together.

KELLY

Kelly is from Taiwan and we walked together for 5 days or so. She was a pleasure to be with as she is always smiling and laughing. She has one of the most positive attitudes that I have ever encountered. If you recall, it was Kelly who had to go to hospital adding another dimension to my Camino. Kelly had taken a leave from her job and was trying to figure out what route to take forward in her life. We separated in Burgos and I never saw her again as she had to arrive in Santiago several days before I did. When I talked to other pilgrims, everyone seemed to know Kelly, she was so outgoing.


NINA

Nina, also from Taiwan is Kelly's friend and she came all the way to Spain just to walk with Kelly for 3 days. It helps of course if you work for an airline. She arrived the evening the Kelly was taken to the hospital, so I met her and we took a taxi to the hospital the following morning. Although somewhat slower than Kelly and I she walked those 3 days with gusto. One evening in our albergue, she and Kelly fixed us dinner, not allowing me to help as thanks for helping Kelly when she became sick. It was a pleasure to have met and walked with her.
ÜLLE

Ülle, from Estonia, owns her own business designing log homes. She is walking the Camino in sections, taking time from work, two weeks here and there. She said she recently checked her in box and realized that she had two weeks free so off she went. I only walked with her a short distance, but we would end up in the same town at night and we and others would get together for dinner. Though very athletic and walking fast, in the middle of the day, she would go off the trail a bit and lay down and take a 2 hour nap. I caught up with her one day at a bar and she told me that she had seen the highway sign giving the kilometers to Santiago as 460 Km. She said she had 10 days left and was going to try to walk 46 km a day and reach Santiago. Although she didn't make it, she did walk three consecutive days of 46 km or more.

LEN
LEN ON THE RIGHT
Len is from Canada and everyone knows it. That's because if you meet Len your are going to get a small Canadian flag lapel pin. I don't know how many pins he had but just about everyone he met got one. You could always tell if a pilgrim had met him, because, usually on their hat was a Canadian flag. When he reached Santiago, he was still giving them out. Len gave his life to Christ long ago and is walking for his beliefs and having recently retired to get closer to his God. Len and I became close to the point where I had no reservation in confiding in him. He was a tremendous benefit to me. We didn't ofter walk together as he was a lot faster than me and there was no way I could keep up. I credit him with some of my blisters when I tired to walk as fast. I believe that someday, Len and I will see one another again.

ALEX

Alex is from Brazil and he and Len walk almost the entire Camino together. He was actually faster than Len, but not by much. Trained as a chemical engineer, Alex is currently out of work and is walking the Camino because now being out of work he has the time. Although Alex and I never really discussed his reasons for walking, he was a great listener. You could alway count on him for some words of wisdom. His way of explaining things about life always made sense. In true pilgrim style Alex got down on his knees and bandaged the blisters on my foot. I will never forget the kindness he showed. In the morning, I would usually start walking around 7 am. Alex and Len would leave around 8 am and would catch up to me around lunch time. Then they pulled ahead of me after lunch and I would find them at the end of the day sitting in the town square enjoying a beer. Oh, and Alex is a three ice cream a day man, weather permitting.
HOWARD AND JOY

Howard and Joy, from the central coast in California are walking together along with their adult son Eliad. We rarely walked together, but often finished our day with dinner together. Howard recently retired as a lawyer, but we won't hold that against him. Both Howard and Joy had a sympathetic ear and Howard told me he was working on some of the same issues as I was. If you were walking behind them you would often see them holding hands or stopping for a kiss. As for Eliad, he met a girl from Austria and hasn't been seen much, except when mom and dad were buying dinner. Actually a bright young man.

RUTH

Ruth from Tasmania, is the bravest woman on the Camino. I was introduced to Ruth by Howard and Joy, and we all shared dinner several nights in a row. Ruth was mentioned in a previous post about crime on the Camino. I won't repeat the story here, but if you missed it, go back and take a look. I only walked with Ruth the day after her court appearance as I believe she may have been worried that the bad guys might still be around and asked me to walk with her.

IVAN
IN THE MIDDLE
Ivan is from Australia and had worked previously as a European tour guide. Well traveled before the Camino, he left his job to travel to various spots around the world. He is really into photography and has recently started drawing. I've seen some of his drawings and he does have some talent. He is always happy to see you and walks with a smile on his face. But when asked to pose for a photo, he has a particular smile.

ISABEL

Lastly Isabel, a young woman from the Netherlands. I met Isabel towards the end of the Camino and I walked with her on the two last days. I had met her over dinner with others, but on the next to the last day, she either caught up with me or I her, I just don't remember. As it happens often on the Camino, you just start walking together. This has happened many times in the past, and it did with Isabel. The last day of walking, I had started out alone, but caught up with her at a breakfast stop. We just started walking together. As we got closer to Santiago we discussed whether or not we wanted to be alone upon arriving at the cathedral. We both agreed the the end needed to be shared with someone. We put our heads down and walked fast for the last 12 miles arriving in Santiago at 11:30. I was great to be able to share my achievement with Isabel and for that reason I will never forget her.

There were many others that I walked with for short distances or shared a meal. I remember them all and will always have a place in my heart for my Camino Family.


Saturday, May 16, 2015

THE CAMINO ENDS, OR DOES IT

After 780 kilometers, 484 miles, walking in forests, over mountains, along highways, narrow country lanes, and across the plains, I made it to Santiago de Compostella in 37 days with just 3 days off. The last day I walked with Isabel and young woman from Netherlands and between us we decided to push it the last day walking 12.5 miles in 4.5 hours, arriving in Santiago by 11:30. Before we arrived we discussed wether or not we wanted to arrive in front of the cathedral alone. We both agreed that we wanted to share the achievement. It was an emotional finish to a fantastic personal journey across Northern Spain. Although, not to the point of tears, we were both elated to have finally arrived.

 
 
Our Arrival
 

 

I have since been asked how I felt when I arrived. Of course I was happy to have completed my walk and thankful that I had made it safely, but when asked to expound on my feelings I find it very difficult to put into words just how I felt. I have asked some of my Camino friends if they could explain exactly how they felt upon arriving in front of the cathedral. None could do so. We all agreed that the only way to know is to walk the Camino yourself. It is a special feeling.

 

After a celebratory meal, sitting where we could watch other pilgrims arrive, we headed to the pilgrims office where we were issued our Compestellas or certificates honoring our completion of the Camino. I met up with Alex and Len, my earlier walking companions and had my second celebration. After that it was a blur of running into Camino family, both those who arrived before me and those who arrived after. Some you may have seen on the final day of walking and others who you may not have seen for weeks. It's hugs all around every time you see someone and you share in their excitement of having completed their own personal journey.

Terry, Ivan and Richard

 

In line for our Compestellas
Isabel, Carmen

 

You almost need a social calendar here in Santiago. Meet Kevin in front of the cathedral, have lunch with Howard and Joy, hook up with Ivan for Tapas and dinner with Len and Alex. I'm glad I am able to be in Santiago for 3 days in order to spend this special time with my Camino family. Most of these people I will never see again. A few, maybe. Even though I've only know them for a few short weeks or even days, I will miss each and everyone of them. We may have walked for different reasons, but we each shared a part of the journey with each other. The companionship we had can never be duplicated or explained adequately.

Doug, Cris, Kevin, Cody, Alex and Len

Michael, Terry, Isabel and Jackie

 

As for me personally, this journey from France and across Northern Spain has changed my life. It's difficult to explain and put into words, but I feel it. For me it is a new beginning. It may take time for my family and friends to fully recognize the difference, but there will be a difference. To my children and grandchildren, I love each and everyone of you. I know I have not adequately expressed this to you before, but I do now. And Cathie, my wife of over 44 years, I love you very deeply and I would never want to lose you. I am thankful for your support in this my personal journey. I know it is difficult for you to understand what I have experienced, but over time I hope it will become clear to you. I also hope that someday soon you will be able to experience what I have and walk your own Camino.

 

In the morning I fly to Madrid where I will await Cathie's arrival and we will begin our trip from Spain, across France and ending in Germany.

 

 

 

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

SICKNESS AND INJURY ON THE CAMINO

Do people get hurt on the Camino? Yes they do. The most common ailments are blisters, followed by problems with joints, tendons and ligaments. Day after day, your body takes a pounding, especially your feet and joints. I've had issues with blisters but they have resolved themselves and have healed nicely. I feel lucky that I've experienced no joint pain with the exception of some minor twinges here and there. The worst injury that I have suffered is a toss up between an infected blister and bruises on the balls of my feet, the latter occurring when I pushed it and walked 22 miles. It was a bit much and I haven't walked that far again.

 

I've conducted an informal survey and have discovered that it is those under 30 that suffer the most. Mostly they come unprepared in terms of training before the camino. Some don't have the time to train as work interferes. I met one young lady who decided to walk a portion of the Camino two days before she started walking. For Europeans this is possible as Spain is just a short flight or train ride away. But it seems that the athletic looking young pilgrim is the one that suffers the most. Perhaps it's because they may feel invincible, being young and stupid and all.

 

What happens if you need medical care? The first stop is the pharmacist as he can dispense most medicines for many ailments. If you need a doctor, the albergues can direct you. What about the cost? I went to a clinic for my infected blister and was not charged anything. I know of a women who needed some dental care. She went to a dentist who took care of her problem and when asked about payment, the dentist gave her the names of two people and asked that she pray for them when she reached Santiago.

 

Do more serious things happen? Yes, people die on the Camino. In days of old they died due to exposure, basic poor health, lack of medical care and the occasional robbery. Actually thieves prayed on pilgrims back in the day. Today pilgrims die mostly due to natural causes like heart attacks. There is also the occasional accident, like getting hit by a truck. When you consider that over 120,000 pilgrims reach Santiago each year, the number of pilgrims who die or who a seriously injured is relatively low.

As I walked along the Camino, on occasion I would come across a small memorial to a pilgrim who died while walking to Santiago. Here are some photos.

 

 

This poor fellow died just one days walk from Santiago.
 
 

With just two walking days left before I reach Santiago, I believe I remain in my current condition, unless of course I get hit by that truck.

 

 

Saturday, May 9, 2015

GETTING CLOSER

 
I am now in Sarria, a city on the Camino about 110 kilometers from Santiago. It is from here that one must walk if they wish to obtain a Compostella, or a certificate of completion, upon arrival in Santiago. The way becomes crowded from this point, with new pilgrims, wearing clean smelling clothes and no mud on their boots. Many will not be carrying a back pack, having their luggage transported in a van to their next hotel. Those of us that have walked from France feel superior to the new pilgrims, but each his own. It is their Camino to walk as they wish, as is mine to do it way that I choose. We are all pilgrims, some choosing to do the camino differently than I.
PILGRIMS ON A BUS
PILGRIMS ON HORSES
PILGRIMS WITH A DONKEY

 

Tomorrow I will pass the 100 kilometer mark, or 60 miles. I have slowed down some to save the feet, but the other day I walked 17 miles almost entirely on pavement. The dogs were barking at the end of the day. Five more days of walking will put me in Santiago. I don't know if I want my Camino to end or not. It's a simple, uncomplicated life, walk, eat, sleep. The next day do it again. It will end though, and I do look forward to meeting Cathie in Madrid.

 

WALKING ON PAVEMENT, NO BUENO

 

ENTERING GALICIA THE HOME TO SANTIAGO

 

Yesterday, also a long day, was the climb to O Cebreiro, the last mountain to go over. Actually once one reaches O Cebreiro, there is still some more up hill to the high point on the trail. At 7 am I left my lodging for the night in the rain. Then the sun came out just long enough to tease me with it's warmth. Upon reaching the first bar in the small hamlet of La Faba I stepped inside to warm up and to have breakfast. Breakfast on the Camino usually consists of orange juice, cafe con leche, and toast. Then back out into the storm. The path going up is rugged and steep, but after about 5 hours I was at the high point. This was the first time that I got really cold while walking. The temperatures dropped, I was in the clouds, with the wind howling and the rain peppering my face. I took shelter in a conveniently placed bar to remove my rain gear and put on another layer underneath. Of course it wasn't long before the sun came out again and then you either sweat or take off the pack, and reduce your layers.

LOOKING BACK

 

O CEBREIRO

 

It was on this same day that I became a criminal. I had lunch in a small village bar consisting of an ice tea and an empanada. Total cost had to be under 5€. When you eat in a bar, one usually orders their food at the bar and returns to pay when you are finished. After eating, I walked outside, put on my pack and headed down the mountain. I had walked about 30 minutes when I realized that I hadn't paid for my meal. Should I turn around and go back up? I had enough up for the day, so that wasn't happening. I continued going down the mountain, half expecting the police to show up at any minute. I decided that when I reached my stop for the night, I would send my payment to the bar in the mail. Then I hit on a better idea. One of my original camino family was one day behind me. So upon arrival at my overnight stop, I sent them a message via Facebook and by promising to buy them many beers, they agreed to stop and pay my bill. Such is Camino Family.

KEVIN COMING UP THE HILL
HOWARD AND JOY, HADN'T SEEN THEM IN DAYS

 

Speaking of Camino Family, sometimes you see people you know everyday. Other times when you haven't seen someone of a long time you wonder what has happened to them. Today shortly after starting out of the day, I heard someone behind me call my name. It was Kevin, who I hadn't seen since Burgos, 17 days ago. We walked into Sarria together and we are at the same hotel. It's always great when you re-connect with someone on the Camino. Of course you're always meeting new people too. The community among pilgrims from all over the world is one of the many benefits of walking to Santiago.

KIRSTEN AND HER MOTHER, GERMANY
This is Ursula from Germany who I met on the first day of my Camino. She sometimes takes the bus to jump ahead, then I catch up with her again.

 

 

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

CRUZ FERRO

Long ago I passed the halfway point, now I've walked 350 miles and have 135 to go. The Meseta is behind me of which I really enjoyed with it's special kind of beauty. After Astorga, a city famous for it's chocolate, the path begins to climb. After two days of steady but gradual climbing, I reached the Curz Ferro, or Iron Cross today. It is located very near to the highest point on the Camino at just shy of 5000 feet. The site consist of a tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross. This is said to be an ancient monument, first erected by the Celts, then dedicated by the Romans to their god Mercury, the protecter of travelers.. In the 9th century it was crowned by the cross and renamed as a Christian site. For centuries, pilgrims have brought a stone to the place carried with them from their homes to represent their burden. The stone and their burden are left here, leaving the pilgrim lighter for the journey ahead.

 

Today, not only do pilgrims bring a stone, but all sorts of symbolic items are left behind. It that vein I have brought with me such an item.

 

About two weeks before leaving for the Camino, a friend and colleague died. I spoke to his wife and told her of my Camino and the Cruz Ferro. I offed to carry with me an item of her choosing in remembrance of her husband. He had attend the seminary for seven years studying to become a priest before deciding to become a policeman. He had a particular sense of humor, which at times got him into trouble. When going through some of his effects trying to find an appropriate item for me to carry, his wife came upon a small religious metal for Saint Dymphna. Saint Dymphna is the saint of the insane, a very appropriate item to represent my friend as he was just a little bit crazy.

 

I have also been carrying my own stone, which for me represents my old way of interacting with my family. By leaving it at the Cruz Ferro, I am leaving the old way behind and will endeavor to be a better person, husband and father.