(Backup) RAIN AND MUD

THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS TO ANY PLACE WORTH GOING

Which was certainly true over the past couple of days.  Upon arrival is was raining and it had been raining in Pamplona for a couple of weeks.  As such, the rivers and streams were overflowing and there was some localized flooding.  But not to worry as I had my raincoat and water proof hat and boots.  I now have three days under my belt and the weather has improved.  Today the sun came out.

On the first day out of Pamplona it was pouring as I left my hotel and joined a line of poncho covered pilgrims, heads down, trudging slowly out of the city.  When leaving the city streets you continue on a dirt path which quickly becomes a river.  You pick your way from high spot to high spot trying to keep your feet dry.  Where the water does not flow, you contend with the mud.  In a short while most pilgrims are covered with it to some degree.  This section of the path leads to Alto de Perdón or the Pass of Forgiveness which is an uphill climb from Pamplona.  It is steep in places made more difficult with all the mud.  After some distance the tail levels out as it passes below an earthen dam and you cross over a small stream.  Unfortunately the dam was overflowing in a torrent and the trail was not to be seen in the flood.

To go around we pilgrims had to climb a steep embankment and cross the flow on the top of the dam.  I of course slipped at the top and slid back down.  Hey, what’s a little more mud at that point.  A little scary crossing the overflowing dam that was slowly eroding away.  Nicely placed about halfway up the hill is a small village and a welcome stop for coffee.

At the top, there is a metal statue of 13 pilgrims leaning into the wind.  The inscription reads, “Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars”.  The statue depicts pilgrims from mid evil times to the present.  And the rain stopped, so it was nice to take a break before heading down the other side.  Downhills are, for me, more difficult than uphills.  It’s tougher on the knees and feet.  I tend to go real slow and to watch where I place my feet.  This particular section of trail is steep with lots of loose rock.  Throw in a little mud and the trekking poles become a life saver.

I arrive at my albergue in the village of Muruzábel and was greeted by Alicia the owner.  She took one look at me with my mud covered clothes and after being told to remove my boots outside, she showed me the washing machine.  I had a nice private room and later sat down with two other pilgrims for a filling pilgrims meal.  Alicia and her husband Carlos run a very nice operation.  I was able to take some shots with my drone and Alicia asked if I would show her 16 year old son the drone when he arrived home from school. So I gave him a demonstration and the next morning Alicia told me that now he wants one.  I think she realized it was a mistake asking me to show him.

The next morning after a simple breakfast of toast, juice and coffee, it was back out into the rain and mud.  Luckily the rain had subsided some and the river levels had decreased.  Early in my walk I passed through Puente la Reina with it’s famous Roman bridge.  On the previous day the river had left it’s banks and a portion of the Camino after the town was under water.  Pilgrims were forced to detour and walk on the highway to the next town.  By mid morning the rain had stopped, but the mud remained making for difficult walking in places.

I am writing this at my stop for the night after my third day.  It was a beautiful walk to the village of Villamayor de Monjardín where I am staying in a beautiful old home where Javier takes in guests.  Just one other pilgrim here, and American woman from Seattle.  The only place for dinner in this village is the only bar, so we shall see.