NEARING THE END

In the end, it's not the years in your live that counts, it's the life in your years.

Well, I guess it’s time for an update on my progress.  I haven’t actually done the math but I’m real close to the 400 mile mark, might have actually passed it today.  That leaves about 45 miles to Santiago.  The plan is, if everything works out right, I will arrive on the 23rd.

Still no issues with the feet, but as a preventative measure I’ve been taping my susceptible toes each morning and they are doing fine.  Still walking around 12 miles a day, sometimes less and sometimes more.  In the last episode I had left the high point of the Camino but by no means did that mean I was done with the hills.  Walked through a region of vast vineyards and the cities of Ponferrada Cacabelos, and Villafranca del Bierzo.  Ponferrada is home to the Templar Castle, and it is one castle that really looks like one.  I skipped the tour and opted for a short walking tour of the old section of the city before relaxing with a glass of wine.  I did take a well deserved day off in Villafranca which after a little exploring it became one of my favorite towns on the Camino.  Not too big and with a nice old city center.

THE CASTLE

THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED HOUSE ON THE CAMINO 

CHURCH IN VILLAFRANCA 

PATTIE AND VERA, IRELAND 

After Villafranca there is a beautiful section walking along a rushing river at the bottom of a deep valley.  The downside to the walk is it’s beside a highway and the trail is entirely pavement.  Luckily there are numerous small villages along the way for resting ones feet and getting something to eat or drink.  All this time you are gradually climbing until you reach the hamlet of Las HerrerÍas, then it gets steep, still beautiful but steep.  After a total climb of 2100 feet you arrive at the small ridge top village of O Cebreiro with it’s stone buildings and thatched roofs.  The last time I made this climb, it rained the entire time, with cold cutting winds. I walked right through the town only stopping for coffee.  This time was different.  It rained the entire climb but no wind and I opted to stay overnight.  Soon the rain stopped and the skies cleared and the views opened up before me.

Near the top of the climb, you enter into Galicia and the region that includes Santiago.  Located in the northwest corner of Spain, it gets a lot of rain and it’s green everywhere.  As I am walking slow and have the time, I take the long route via Samos with it’s huge monastery.  But the highlight was the lush landscape with few pilgrims.  So for most of two days is was really quiet, with easy walking.

So now I am in the last 100 kilometers and the path is crowded.  It is the last 100 kilometers one must walk in order to obtain their Compostela once reaching Santiago.  There are hundreds of them, all excited and eager to go.  After a couple of days they settle down, slow down, and quiet down.  They will be stiff and sore each morning and many are sporting blisters.  I’ve have noticed that there is a lot more taxi traffic on the Camino now, as many have underestimated the difficulty of the walk.  It is easy of us veterans to look down upon these new fresh smelling pilgrims, but we must remember that each person walks their own Camino.

100 KILOMETERS TO GO