In Burgos Kelly and I decided to walk separately. I am sure we will cross paths again as that's the way it is on the Camino. In Burgos I caught up with most of my original Camino family and enjoyed dinner in the cathedral square with them. I had been behind because of staying with Kelly when she was in the hospital. It was great to catch up on the latest news (think gossip).
Burgo Catherdral
The next morning with a 19.5 mile day in store I was off at 7 am. Even in large cities at this hour it is sometimes difficult to find coffee and something to eat. By the time I was out of the city, I still had not found coffee, so one just pushes forward. A long detour due to highway construction added a mile or so to the days walk. Rain off and on, but the rain gear worked. Finally after 6.5 miles, a town with food and cafe con leche.
I stopped many times on this day to take care of my feet. I've developed some new minor blisters on my toes, so I stop often.
After Burgos is the start of the Meseta, or the plains. It will take about a week to cross the plains so with just a couple of exceptions the walking will be easy. There is one hill with a 12% grade going up and an 18% grade going down the other side. The Meseta is a major wheat growing area along with other crops I cannot identify. Although basically flat, there is enough texture to the land with slight changes in elevation and the vivid green fields to make it really beautiful.
But it's slow going
After a stop for lunch I caught up with Ülle from Estonia. An architect who designs log homes is like many Europeans who take a break from work to walk a section of the Camino. Two weeks here and two weeks later until the Camino is completed. We walked together until reaching our stop for the night, where she joined us for dinner. She walks very fast, is a marathon runner and is extremely fit. The next day she left before me, but I arrived at the next overnight hours before her. Turns out that at midday she stops for several hours and takes a nap. Then the following day I spoke to her at a break spot and she said she has ten more days and is going to walk 46 km or about 28 miles a day to reach Santiago. I received a message from her in the evening and she had walked an incredible 50 km. I think she'll make it.
Each day walking I pass through village after village. Sometimes beautiful and other not so much. You forget the names as there is always another village up ahead. Two of my Camino family, Len from Canada and Alex from Brazil have been walking together since the beginning. We are at times starting and stopping in the same towns. I usually leave around 7 and they leave about 8. Around lunch time they are passing me and when I arrive at the days destination, I can usually find them at the local bar enjoying a beer. Both have been true pilgrims, providing me with tape for my feet when I ran out. Alex actually applied the bandage to my foot. That is another example of Camino family and being a pilgrim.
A couple of days ago, Alex and Len told me that they were going to push past the next stop making the walk for the day over 20 miles. I said, "count me in" and headed out in the morning about an hour before them. Once again about lunch time they passed me by. As I was passing through another nameless town, I heard Len call my name and I found them in an oasis of sorts at an albergue with a nice green lawn enjoying an ice cream. Turns out Alex is about a 3 ice cream a day man so of course I couldn't help but to stop.
With five miles left in the day, I headed out before them and turned on my music. When listen to music I tend to walk faster, keeping up with the beat playing on my earphones. Since no one can hear me, I sing it loud. Len managed to pass me about halfway through, but I was in the grove, so to speak, and I managed to stay ahead of Alex. I paid the price though, and my feet are in pain.
After a short 11 mile day, we are in Corrión de los Condes and have decided to take a rest day. With the exception of time in the hospital in Logrono, this will be my first day off. If I continue at the current pace, I will be in Santiago on the 12th, 5 days before my flight leaves for Madrid. I think I will be taking a couple more rest days.
Alex, Len and I shared this pilgrims lunch, fried shrimp, sausage, ham and cheese
This small city is in the center of a major farming region and there is a farm implement show taking place. We figured that was enough of a reason to take a day off and let the feet recover.
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