Day 9 14.2 Taxi miles, Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado
As mentioned in the previous post, a taxi ride was in order. So, instead of walking I rode this segment in the aforementioned taxi, to give my tendonitis a rest. At least that’s what I believe it is. The pain goes away with rest and as I write this in the evening after a day of no walking, except to the bar, I have no pain. So tomorrow is a short mileage day and I head out about 7 so I can really go slow and stop often. I am using Jacotrans, a service that will move your backpack or suitcase for you to your next stop. For 6€ it will be waiting for me at my next lodging when I arrive. If I can walk, then I will continue to send the pack ahead and just carry my balance pack.
If it doesn’t work out, then I’ll have to make a decision. Rest up for more days and hope for the best, rent a AirB&B till it’s time to go home, or change my flight and skedaddle out of here. The latter is an expensive proposition as I bought my tickets last year at a really low price. Now I would have to pay the difference which, is more that double the original price. I’m hoping for the best outcome as I want to keep walking. I was actually bored today just sitting around watching the other pilgrims come and go. Saw a few catching the bus to go home, hoping I won’t be doing the same.
Day 10 7.6 miles, Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca
Up and out at 7, leaving my pack behind for Jacotrans to pickup and take to my next stop. Before heading out, a pilgrims breakfast at the bar across the street from my room. It was raining as I left town, so I ducked under a bridge till the worst of it was over. Since I’m still walking in my socks and sandals, it’s important to keep them dry. It was also cold, cloudy and breezy, so my rain jacket stayed on for extra warmth. Short day with a couple of gentle inclines almost entirely on dirt farm roads.
So, how did the body do? You ask. Not too bad. The blisters stayed quite, and it appeared that the knife has been removed from my thigh. After a couple of miles, the thigh spoke to me just to remind me that it was still around ready to ruin the day if I didn’t behave. I listened an stopped for my second pilgrim breakfast, taking my time and enjoying a Cafe con Leche Grande. The second half of my short day there were no issues. I do believe the weight of my pack is what caused the knife to keep stabbing my thigh. My pack is not overly heavy, but any amount to extra weight that the body is not used to can cause problems. The next two days will be the real test as they are 11.2 and 12.5 respectively. If all goes well, then onward. If not, well we’ll see.
Just before entering the village of Villafranca and along the Camino stands this ruin. After a little internet research I found our that it is all that remains of the Monastery of San Félix de Oca which was built back in the 800’s. What is amazing is that it still stands.
The hotel in the small town is upscale for the little village that it is in. There is a nice bar with big over stuffed chairs, just what a pilgrim needs. The walls are adorned with hunt trophies, whose I don’t know. I opted for the pilgrims meal for dinner and as usual it continues to disappoint. The price is the draw to this simple offering of food, Garlic Soup and the wine are the pulses, while two skinny chicken drumsticks and the usual French fries are nothing special. Breakfast was included in the room and they had peanut butter so that was a plus.
BAR FOOD, CROQUETS
Day 11 11.5 Miles
Then out the door at 7:30 and right away a steep climb up to a forested plateau where the wind was howling. Once onto the plateau it was easy walking for the remainder of the day with only one steep decent and incline. Every once in a while my thigh would threaten to stick me with the knife if I didn’t slow down. The blisters are quiet, so it was mostly an easy walk, with the exception of the wind. Shipping my back back ahead is, so far, making a world of difference At about 7 miles, I took a break with my second Cafe con Leche and a bocadillo of cheese, ham and a fried egg.
While having my bocadillo, some American Pilgrims who passed me a week ago, showed up. Now I was ahead of them, which is unusual as I am rarely ahead of anybody. When I first met them they were all vim and vinegar speeding along. They have paid the price and and are licking their wounds. That my friends is the Camino. The Camino has the ability to humble you in a hurry.
MONASTERY AT SAN JUAN DE ORTEGA
I’VE PHOTOGRAPHED THIS TREE ON EACH OF MY CAMINOS
Tonight I am in Atapuerca in a rural hotel. I’m on the top floor under the eaves that are hand hewn beams, that one must duck to avoid damage to the noggin. Atapuerca is known for an archaeological site that contain some of the oldest human remains in the Iberian Peninsula. Some of the remains are estimated to be 800,000 years old.
Dinner was included in the price of the hotel room and there were several choices for the main course. The usual chicken, but Beef Cheeks were on the menu. The cooked choices were cooked in an outdoor oven over wood, including the potatoes which for a change weren’t fried. The Beef Cheeks were my choice and if you’ve never tried them, you should. Very tender and tasty. Of course the dinner came with a bottle of wine, which if you don’t finish it, will be poured into another bottle and served at the next meal.
GARLIC SOUP
BEEF CHEEKS AND POTATOES
HOME MADE CHEESE CAKE
OF COURSE THE WINE
CHICKEN OUT OF THE OUTDOOR OVEN
Day 12 12.5 miles
Out the door after breakfast provided by the hotel and first up is a climb up. After about a mile it levels out and then descends gradually to the valley. The rest of the day is level, first farmland then around the perimeter of the Burgos Airport. It’s sunny for the first time in a couple of days and little wind. There are two routes to enter Burgos. One goes about 4 miles through industrial buildings and the other in parkland along the river for the same distance. I chose the park, but it’s still 4 miles, with much of it on pavement
After checking in to my hotel, showering, I headed to a small laundromat which is just down the street. 3 washers, 2 dryers, the place is tiny. I’m sharing a dryer with a pilgrim from Germany, which is not uncommon on the Camino. Tomorrow will be a day off as I deserve it. I will also due my best to avoid the pilgrim dinner and eat in a restaurant that Cathie and I discovered when we were here in 2017. Here is one account about how the Scallop Shell became the symbol of the Camino
The scallop shell legend says that a wedding party saw on the horizon a drifting boat that was approaching the shore, the groom entered the water in his horse trying to help, and ended up submerged by the sea. Desperate, he prayed to the heavens and the miracle came as a strange force that dragged him towards the shore. The horse and the rider set foot safe on the ground as the boat carrying saint James’ remains reached the shore. Everyone considered that rescue a miracle. Both the rider and his horse were completely covered in scallop shells, this is why the image of Saint James is linked to the scallop shell.
No comments:
Post a Comment