CONTINUING ON

WALK, EAT, SLEEP

Day 3

A 9 am start, late for a pilgrim but the casa rural that I stayed in was fabulous and comfortable.  I slept in till 7:30 an unheard of hour for most pilgrims. A mostly easy walk today with short climbs and not too steep.  Because I am staying between the stages, I didn’t see another pilgrim for the first 2 hours, and then only until I reached the city of Estrella.  A windy day today which at time made it felt really cold.  A few sprinkles thrown in for good measure.

I stopped in Estrella long enough to have an ice tea and to take care of me feet.  I was hoping to be blister free this time, but the down hills had a different idea.  Due to my toes mashing into the front of my boot, I developed a blister under the nail of one of them.  Not really painful, unless I mash it into the front of my boot again.  All in all I am faring well, with no other issues.

After Estrella there is a gentle climb through the city until the outskirts where there is the Fuente de Vino, or the wine fountain.  The local winery which the Camino passes through, has a fountain for pilgrims which on spigot dispensers water and the other wine.  Pilgrims are encouraged to have a taste, although some actually fill up a whole water bottle, which is frowned upon.  I have seen some pilgrims who have nothing to drink from, put their mouth on the spigot and turn the handle.  Pretty disgusting.  The proper way is to use your scallop shell to drink from.  Anyway the wine is free and because it’s free, not very good.

Tonight I am again between the stages in the small village of Azqueta, staying at La Perla Nedra, or The Black Pearl.  Operated by Helena, it is very basic with several beds in each room.  Right now I am in a room with two other empty beds, but if the place fills up, I will be sharing the room.  One shower for a total of eight pilgrims.  But dinner and breakfast is included, and one must remember the saying, “tourists complain, pilgrims are grateful.”  You have a place to sleep and food on the table.

Day 4

Actually as simple as it was, last nights albergue was OK.  Four other pilgrims, but none assigned to my room, so I slept well.  Dinner was simple, vegetarian, and really quite tasty. Of course it came with wine.  I slept rather soundly, and got up about 6:30 to  simple breakfast of toast, yogurt, and coffee.  Cheese and dry cereal was available, but I passed.  Out the door at 7:30 in the the 40 degree morning.  It didn’t stay cold long and it warmed up into the high 60’s a pleasant change from the wind and cool temps of the past couple of days.

On the way to the next town you pass the Fuente de los Moros (13th century cistern), with steps on the inside leading down to the water.  Todays walk was through farmland, with mostly wheat, grapes and a few olive groves.  Except when passing through Los Arcos, a pretty good sized town, the walking was on dirt farm roads.  Towards the end of today’s walk, it turned to pavement as you approach Sansol. I continued on just a short distance to Torres del Rio.

SANSOL

TORRES DEL RIO

I walk pretty slow, and most pilgrims pass me.  In fact the only pilgrims I passed were in bars or sitting down taking a break.  Sometimes a pilgrim arrives by my side and starts a conversation.  So, I tend to walk faster to keep up with their pace to continue the conversation.  I did that a couple of times today and paid the price.  I now have a blister on the end of my big toe and another one developing and another toe.  You just don’t feel them coming on.  At my lunch stop, as is my practice, I changed socks and there it was.  So I taped it up, slathered some more Vaseline on my feet and continued on.  After awhile it became so painful that I had to switch to my sandals.  So, until the blisters get better, the boots stay off.

Tonight I am back in a private room at an albergue in Torres del Rio, a small village.  Most of these small villages would not survive if not for the Camino.  Torres del Rio, has 4 albergues/ hostels that cater mostly to pilgrims.  These establishments usually include and bar/restaurant, both dormitory and private rooms  The Camino and the towns and villages it passes through really suffered during Covid.  I have seen many business that were operational when I walked in 2018 vacant and in some cases in disrepair.

CHURCH IN LOS ARCOS

Day Five

The Albergue I was staying in does’t serve breakfast, so I had to walk the opposite direction on the Camino and down hill to find an open cafe.  This is usually frowned upon by other pilgrims as you add unnecessary kilometers to the Camino.  What!  You walked backward?  But if I wanted my Camino breakfast it would mean 6 miles to the first chance to find a Coffee con Leche and a Chocolate Neapolitan going in the right direction.  So having to repeat 100 yards by going in the wrong direction became necessary.  I did confess to my fellow pilgrims my breaking of an important pilgrim rule and was forgiven.

I continued walking in my sandals and they did the job.  The only problem that might develop by wearing them is they do not offer much support.  Most of my days are short so I’m hoping they will continue to serve me well.

Today started out at 40 Degrees and by the end of the walk in the high 60’s. Most on dirt paths, till the last 2 miles that were on pavement.  With the temperature in the 60’s’ on blacktop that translates into the 80’s.  You really feel in on your feet.  I stopped to change socks, which is my custom to prevent blisters.  I an effort to add an additional lever of feet security, I stepped into a sports shop and bought a pair of toe socks which I will wear under my hiking socks.  Other pilgrims swear by them, so, why not?

After another 12+ mile day, I reach Logroño, the capitol of La Rioja region.  This part of Spain is known for it’s wines.  Logroño’s population is approximately 150,000, so it is a large city.  Besides it’s wine the City of Logroño is famous for it’s Pinchos or Tapas.  Small appetizers eaten in bars made with lots of different ingredients.  So I, along with some of my fellow pilgrims will head over to Calle Laurel for it’s famous Pinchos, and will skip dinner.

I am in a small studio apartment for the night. It’s advantage is that it has a washing machine so I was able to get my clothes washed.  I am right next to the cathedral square with it’s two towers which can be seen as you approach the city.  The city center is mostly pedestrian only, so it’s great for walking.