AND NOW I BEGIN

One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.

Day 1:  Left Pamplona at 8 under cloudy skies with a chill in the air.  The route out of Pamplona has changed some since the last time I walked. It seems it changed so it would go by more coffee shops. Before the change the route was practically devoid of places to grab a quick bite.  I must have passed 5 or 6 cafes on the new route. This is  good thing for both the pilgrims and local businesses.  It is difficult to get off route as the path through town is clearly marked with the symbol of the Camino, the scallop shell.  The shell and yellow arrows on official signs or just painted on a light pole or a curb are what guide you along the Way.

Why the scallop shell you ask?  The legend goes that when Saint James’ body was discovered in Galicia it was covered in scallop shells having been washed up on the shore.  (More about that in a future post). So, the scallop shell became the symbol of the Camino.  Most pilgrims carry a scallop shell on the backpack.  The yellow arrows came later. One of the most international symbols of the Camino de Santiago is the yellow arrow, painted on roads, houses, fences and trees.  It is of recent origin as it was conceived in 1984 on the initiative of a priest of O Cebreiro, Elías Valiña, and signposted the French Way from France to Santiago.  So you just follow the yellow arrows and the shell and you’ll never get lost. And if you do, a local person will soon direct you in the right direction.

After leaving the city you begin the climb to Alto del Perdón, at 2500 feet the high point on todays walk.  There is a monument there with steel sculptures which represent pilgrims through the eras, beginning in mid-evil times to the present day.  The inscription on the monument reads "Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars."  The walk down from the top is the tough part, steep and covered with loose rocks.  Thirteen miles today and I really felt the downhill part.  Tomorrow I’ll be doing the Camino Shuffle, a common affliction seen in pilgrims who are just starting out.  You know, just shuffling along.  Of course there is always Camino Candy to ease the pain. (Ibphrophen)

LEAVING PAMPLONA

ALTO DEL PERDON 

HEADING DOWN

On my stop for lunch, I shared a table with an Iranian couple who now reside in Germany.  It is not uncommon the share a table with other pilgrims in a crowded bar.  At first no words were spoken, but the wife poured some of their potato chips out onto a napkin and slid them over to me.  Then the conservation began.  Never any talk about politics, just about the Camino.  The husband, Razor (sp) commented on how open everyone is willing to share details about their lives.  That my friends is the Camino. 

Today’s stop is in the village of Obanos, just shy of the town of Puente la Reina, a town listed in guide books as the end of a stage.  A larger town than where I’m staying with all the services a Pilgrim might need.  Because I am walking shorter distances, I end up in some of the smaller villages, such a Obanos.  I am staying in a Casa Rural that has 4 private rooms.  I am the only guest.  For a small fee, I am able to get my clothes washed, and they needed it after today’s walk.  For dinner I go to the local bar which I might add was full of locals.  Not another pilgrim in sight. Dinner was the Menú del dia which consisted of different choices for each of the three courses. So when the bar man was trying to explain each choice, I noticed one included the word “jamon”, you know ham.  I seemed a good pick so I went with it.  I was delivered a full dinner plate of peas, with small little pieces of ham.  I hate peas, but I had to at least try. Actually they were quite good, not like any pea I’ve ever eaten. I managed to finish most of them, more peas than I’ve had in my entire life.  The rest of the meal had no surprises, consisting of chicken and potatoes and flan for desert.  Of course, wine is included with the meal.

The bar patrons were about 90% male, who were loud and boisterous.  A card game going at one table, the rest of the bar being packed.  I had to eat at the bar as all the tables were taken.  I imagine that the men were telling lies to each other, just like bars around the world.  I had a few conversations with with some of them, none of which I understood, I got by, by nodding in the affirmative and saying, Sí, over and over.

Day 2

A shorter day today, just over 10 miles.  I few steep climbs, but several villages to stop in for a break. A stop in Puente la Reina for breakfast where I caught up with a Spanish couple who I had breakfast with in Pamplona.  Named for the bridge, the town is a major stopping point for Pilgrims on the Camino.  The bridge was built in the 11th century in the Romanesque style.  It has six arches, and was built by Doña Mayor, wife of King Sancho III, to facilitate the passage of pilgrims. I crossed the bridge in the rain and continued on into the country side, with fields of wheat, fava beans and vineyards covering the hillsides.

I met an Italian woman and her daughter and it is natural to have a conversation with other pilgrims who you may walk with for a time.  Julia and Laure kept me company for a while and when stopping in a village, Julia insisted on buying me a cup of coffee con leche.  This my friends is the Camino

I arrived at my destination about 1 pm, too early to check in to the casa rural I had reserved.  So at one of the Albergues in the village. I had lentil soup for lunch.  I have to mention that all along the Camino each region has it’s own soup that is a specialty in that particular to that area.  I have found that they are all delicious and make to a good lunch choice rather than the common bocidillo (sandwich).  And because I was early, I used the time to write this.  The owners of the albergue were accommodating and allowed me to use one of their cafe tables as my own office so to speak.  A very nice couple, she is from Korea and he is Spanish.  They met in Italy, fell in love and opened this albergue in the small village of Lorca.  Stop in and have some of their delicious Lentil soup.

For readers that leave comments.  I understand the reluctance to sign up for Google to leave a name with your comment.  If you wouldn’t mind when you make an anonymous comment, in the body of your comment would you just sign it with your first name, so at least I’ll have an idea who you are….or not. Secondly, if we are not already friends on Facebook and you would like to follow along with my daily updates, leave a comment on the blog with your first name and then send me a friend request on Facebook with the same first name.  I don’t like and will not accept facebook request from people that I have no connection with.  Of course you can do neither of these two options and I’ll be fine with that.

The journey continues….